Tome & Plum: Diwali Of Present Bhopal Still Has By-Gone-Day Fragrance

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Bhopal (Madhya Pradesh): Lights. Bangs. Sweets. Gifts. This is all about Diwali for us. The celebrations remind us of Lord Rama’s triumphant return from exile to Ayodhya.

This is also the time to delve into the moth-eaten yellow pages of history to know how we celebrated Diwali; and how we are celebrating it now.

In Bhopal, one can hear the past breathe in the heart of the present.

So, the city has been welcoming with kingly lamps the Lord’s victorious return from exile since the days of yore. In the Nawabi era, the people of Bhopal made royal earthen lamps, jewellery, and wove special garments with Zari-Zardozi works to celebrate the occasion – though it was confined to certain areas. A playwright and a scholar of Indian history and culture, Abdul Halim Sharar (1860-1920), also gave a passing reference to Bhopal’s Diwali and earthen lamps in one of his books.

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He may have visited the city. Although the style of making these lamps was not mentioned anywhere, it is true Diwali was celebrated with all its booms and bangs, say historical documents. Historians, however, keep mum over how and when Diwali, Deepavali or Jashan-e-Chiraghan (in Persian) got the royal touch. Yet it seems the festival has acquired that stately touch since time immemorial, because the word Diwali finds its origin in Sanskrit texts as Deepavali, signifying a ‘row of lights’.

It has come from deepa (lamp, light or illumination; or symbolically, knowledge) and avali (row or series). The scriptures like the Padma Purana, Vishnu Purana and Kalika Purana and Harsha’s play Nagananda, as well as stone and copper inscriptions refer to the festival as Deepotsava, Deepotsavam, Deepavali, Divali and Divalige. A few such inscriptions have been found in Central India.

The Jain and Buddhist scriptures found in Vidisha and its surroundings also refer to this festival, but, with the passage of time, this ancient festival has become more popular. A tiny non-descript village of the ancient Malwa region as Bhopal was, it became a princely state in 1818, and began to draw the attention of other rulers across the country.

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Gallons of water have flowed down the Upper Lake since then, and today, it is a modern city with all the trappings. Yet the festival has not lost the charms of the by-gone era. On the occasions of Diwali and Eid, exquisite crafted handicrafts, beaded jewellery, artefacts like cutlery baskets and knick-knacks crafted from bamboo, brightly assorted shawls and assorted garments were on sale in Bhopal.

They were very popular among locals. There were also terracotta statues of Goddess Lakshmi and Ganesh. Many such statues were found during excavations. Local artisans made those statues. According to historians, Nawab Hamidullah Khan (1896-1960), the last ruler of the erstwhile princely state of Bhopal, was fond of celebrating both Dussehra and Diwali. He ensured that all the houses were lit up on this auspicious day. Khan would himself visit the house of his Prime Minister Raja Awadh Narayan Bisariya on the occasion of Dussehra to celebrate it, say historians.

According to some sources, he was the chief minister under the rule of Nawab. His daughters also carried forward the tradition of celebrating all the festivals together with all the communities. Both Dussehra and Eid were the official festivals of Nawabi era Bhopal. History says there was a Nawabi firman that if anyone tried to create any sort of nuisance during any festival, his face would be blackened and he would be given a donkey-ride.

Decoration of each house with lights was part of Diwali on those days, too. It used to be a gala event. Such was the communal harmony in the city. This was the reason why, when there was communal tension across the country, Bhopal was an oasis of peace and celebrated all the festivals. Modern Bhopal still has this tradition. After the passing away of Nawab, his daughters Abida Sultan, Sajida Sultan and Rubia Sultan continued this tradition. Sajida was especially the frontrunner in celebrating the Hindu festivals – particularly Diwali.

Bhopal had the whiff of independence a little late, because it was one of the last states to sign the instrument of accession. In that year too, all Hindu festivals, including Diwali, were celebrated with gaiety. One such delight is celebrating all festivals – Holy, Dussehra, Diwali, and Eid – with equal zeal.

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